This morning, along with about a hundred other Japanese tourists, I visited Peyto Lake. The skies were still overcast and the clouds just barely skimming the tops of the surrounding mountains. The water, like all of that in the Canadian Rockies, was a gorgeous emerald green. I have learned that this is due to "rock flour", or super finely ground rock as a result of glacial movement.
After a bit more driving and much more rain, snow, and slush falling from the sky, we stopped at the Columbia Ice Fields visitor's center. Due to all elevation gain, the precipitation consisted of gigantic snowflakes and some slushy rain. Weather like this is my most favorite; though most would think that I am deranged. The cold, gloom, and mist remind me so much of autumn in Houghton, MI and it is such a peaceful time.
With tickets to ride the Snocoach out onto the Athabasca Glacier and soon ventured onto the ice. The weather just began to break as we were let onto the ice, which is nearly 1000 feet deep at this point. I sipped a bit of the glacial runoff and found it not nearly as cold as I had anticipated. The eerie translucent blue glacier is so beautiful and absolutely mind boggling in size and depth.
On our way to Jasper National Park, just north of the ice fields, Gwen and I stopped at Athabasca Falls, which are actually north of the ice field. Here I saw the most spectacular waterfalls that I have seen on this trip and perhaps in my life. I think that they are actually a better sight to behold than Niagara Falls in Buffalo, NY.
During the short drive to the campground, Gwen noticed many cars pulled over to the side of the road and people gawking at some wildlife. In contrast to the US parks, here people actually pull off the road before stopping. There was a small black bear poking around in the woods and a few people were slowing inching their way towards the apparently tame beast.
From my observations the Canadian Rockies and National Parks are far superior to those that I have visited in the United States. The trails are much more natural and usually lacking pavement, planking, or railings. The Canadians seem to be much more willing to let you kill yourself as a result of your own foolishness. There are far fewer signs prohibiting or instructing special action from the visitor in Canada. Above all, the lakes, peaks, and sights simply seem to be more spectacular. In just the past few days I have really cut into my film supply for the trip and will probably have to reorder more along the way. Now might be a good time to invest in Fuji stock.
This evening we camped near Whistler Mountain in Jasper.
Happy Canada Day!
After watching the parade through downtown Jasper we ventured to Maligne Canyon for some more sightseeing. Surprisingly, I saw mountains, waterfalls, and awesome gorges. In all the views were, as they have been for the past several days, spectacular. I never really had the words to describe the incredible sights that I have been seeing, and now I have run out of what little I did have. The best way that I can put it is by saying "I will never get tired of looking at this"
As I slept this evening the booming from the Canada Day fireworks woke me up; however, I remained inside the tent and saw nothing.
I had a breakfast this morning of gargantuan proportions this morning. It was a great way to fuel up before our upcoming bike ride. Gwen and I rented mountain bikes and pedaled out towards the Valley of Five Lakes. The 22 km ride was supposed to be for beginners, or so the first person told us. This turned out to be the most challenging ride that I have ever take; though I have not made many mountain bike treks. There were several others on the trail who appeared to be far more experienced and they too were on a mountain bike / walk up some of the hills.
This adventure taught me three major things about mountain biking. First of all, if I am going to do any mountain biking on anything other than pavement or perhaps a relatively flat trail I must have shoes that clip to the pedals. There were several times that I could not make it up a hill because my foot slid off the pedal. If it had not, I think that I would have had a much better chance of conquering the hill. Secondly, I really needed a Camel-Pak. Grabbing for a water bottle is not easy and they don't hold enough. I think that a Camel-Pak is the best way to go. Finally, by the end of the trail, the blisters on my palms had me convinced to purchase biking gloves.
After slight pounding that my body took, we decided that a soak in the Miette Hot Springs was in order. Oh, these felt good and even better than those in Banff. Again, completely natural hot water feeds these pools and all that is added is chlorine and filtration.
Greek food rounded out our last night in Jasper. I have found it to be a town very similar in size and lifestyle to that of Jackson, WY. I could stay here for a while too.
Gwen and I made the 5 and a half hour drive from Jasper to Calgary this morning and into the early afternoon. Initially, Gwen was planning on joining me in the DA-40 on the flight to Prince George. After checking out the flight availability and bookings; though, it quickly became apparent that if she came to Alaska with us, there would be little chance for her to leave. Consequently, she chose to take a Greyhound bus from Calgary all the way to New York City. I am sure that she will be on her own adventure for the next three days or so.
On my own again, I consulted with Flight Service for my flight from Calgary to Prince George. I was encountering two problems. First, due to the length of the flight, I would require a fuel stop and it was quickly becoming too late in the afternoon to find an airport that would be open for fuel. The airports are few around northern Canada and those with services are even sparser.
Secondly, the clouds were a bit too low for an out-of-towner to be making his way through unfamiliar mountain passes. Upon further consideration I could not make it on an instrument flight plan because I would have to go so high that I would be right in the ice laden clouds. I made the executive decision to go to the hotel for the night and eat dinner.
Aviation decisions made for the day, I had the most difficult and dangerous part of the trip. That is the travel from the airport to the hotel. Earlier today a cab driver got lost going from the main terminal to the Calgary Flight Training Center, where the airplane was parked. I ended up paying for the scenic tour version of his route. Argh! Fortunately, a couple of great guys gave me a ride from the training center over to the hotel. It was fun talking to them as Mike was taking the commercial pilot's course at the flight school and his father, John, is a pilot for one of Air Canada's regional airlines. We had a good time discussing the differences between American and Canadian airlines.
Today started out well intentioned and planned; however, as is often the case when working with small airplanes, things quickly changed. This is sometimes what makes general aviation so much fun though. I was supposed to make a flight from Calgary, the second attempt mind you, to Dawson Creek via White Court. I encountered a torrential downpour in White Court and washed out the inside of the airplane. That is one of the advantages of a canopy-equipped airplane. I am sure that most of the electronics did not appreciate the bath though.
Upon arrival in Dawson Creek, I received a message from Philip to meet them in Fort St. John, BC instead. After untying the airplane and filing a flight plan I made the short jaunt over to Fort St. John. I had planned on waiting at the airport for about 3 hours for Philip and Kyle to arrive in the Winnebago. All pilots know how it goes, sleep on the airport couch for about 20 minutes, wake up to some people walking in, and then another 20 minutes of sleep. I am not sure if this really replenishes or depletes one's rest supply.
After waiting for about 5 hours, I began to suspect the worst about Philip and Kyle's fate. It turns out that the Winnebago does not like being shifted from Drive to reverse while going forward at about 40 mph. The luxury motor coach was once again dead. This time in Hudson's Hope, British Columbia. Philip called me with the grim news, and requested that I fly to Hudson's Hope to pick him up.
I loved landing in Hudson's Hope. The airport sits up on a plateau and trees surround the runway. It was gorgeous dropping in below the trees to make the landing. Once on the ground and shut down, I found nobody and nothing there. It was perfectly still and quiet. There was only a single shack. Ahh, the joys of flying in northern Canada. Philip appeared with a friendly local and the two of us headed back Fort St. John.
Once checked into a hotel and with stomachs filled we headed over to the local public pool. It seems that Canadians have year-round recreation figured out. In most major cities there is a public pool and it is no small development. The one that we visited had an awesome water slide, hot tub, high dive, and sauna. I had a great time, and played especially long on the water slide. While driving to swimming pool I got my first opportunity to drive on the Alaska Highway, albeit for only about 1 mile.
I spent the night in a hotel again this evening. I could really get used to a real bed in a warm room.
After getting the Winnebago repaired in Fort St. John, Philip and I headed out on the Alaska Highway, just from overhead. It was a gorgeous flight and we could see the rolling landscape, plateaus, and multiple natural gas processing plants. During our overflight of the highway we spotted Kyle with the Winnebago and made a couple of low passes to spice up her drive.
After landing in Fort Nelson I had lunch at the airport restaurant. The dining facility consisted of a long table with four chairs on a side in a small room. This was it. I am now really feeling like I am leaving civilization and on my way to Alaska.
This evening we camped at the airport next to the airplane. It was so beautiful, the sunset red, the twilight calm, and airplanes nearby. There was a Piper Super Cub in great shape and an award winning amphibious Grumman Widgeon owned by John and Linda whom I met earlier today in the airport restaurant. I absolutely love small airports early in the morning and evening. The people at general aviation airports are wonderful, the sounds and sights are superb. I am excited to wake up to the noise of an airplane cranking up or the squeak of tires touching down.
Again, this evening we went to the local recreation center for a swim. I swam a few laps and realized that either my form was really poor, I hadn't done that for a long time, or that I was out of shape. Afterward I soaked in the hot tub and finally spent some time in the sauna.
Today in Fort Nelson, British Columbia, the sun sets at 11:30 PM and rises again at 3:30 AM. The days have been getting notably longer as we progress northward. I am anxious to see the midnight sun in Alaska.
Overall the weather the past few days has been quite cool. My shorts are packed away and I have broken out the sweatshirt, wind jacket, and jeans. This is strange for nearly the middle of July; however, the locals tell me that summers can be very hot and others quite cool.
Last night I slept in an extra bed at the airport. Actually, it was a trailer that was converted to an office and extra bedroom. Kyle and Philip parked the Winnebago right next to the trailer and we were all set. It was wonderful camping on an airport and waking up to the sound of the turbine helicopters winding up. I enjoyed another great night's sleep. This hospitality and generosity is fairly common amongst small airports and the people that own or manage them.
After some IFR training, Philip and I made the flight along the Alaska Highway to Liard River Airstrip. Note, this was not an airport, but nothing more than a gravel two track cut between the trees. It was a beautiful landing spot, right along a river and really made me feel like we were in the Yukon, though still barely in British Columbia. Here, Kyle picked us up and we made the short drive to the Liard Hot Springs. These were unlike any other hot or mineral springs that we have been to yet. No concrete pools existed here; it was the real thing. The super hot water bubbled up in a small pool and created a river of water of varying degrees of temperature depending on how close to the source you go. In some places the temperature went to 170°F. I nearly par-boiled myself and it felt great. Everybody that we met along the way told us of a bear mauling two visitors at these springs a couple of years ago. Needless to say, we brought the bear repellent along.
Our final leg of the day took us to Watson Lake, Yukon. I think that I have arrived in paradise. The woman at the FBO was tremendous and pointed us towards a lake very nearby the airport for camping. Shortly after making camp, I went for a swim bath in the cold waters of Watson Lake to rid myself of the pungent sulfur odor that has been wafting from my body since our visit to the hot springs earlier today. It was invigorating and I am sure that others nearby me will appreciate it.